Hotel Waria

Hotel Waria

Traditionally a target of harassment and intimidation in the world’s most populous Muslim country, transgenders in Indonesia - also called “waria”, a term that combines the Indonesian for woman (want) and the word for man (pria) - have lately been fighting for better acceptance, thanks to the work of some trail-blazing activists who have themselves endured decades of hardship. After seeing many colleagues fall victims to AIDS and other fatal diseases, “Mami” Joyce now takes care of 20 young transgender sex workers who are living with her as if in a big family. “Mami” Yuli, a prominent human rights campaigner, has set up a shelter for elderly transgenders, partly funded by a network of churches and a government that until three years ago still deemed them “mentally ill”. Also thanks to their efforts, there are signs that the future is getting brighter for this marginalized community, which activists estimate to be at least 3 million-strong in Indonesia. But much still needs to be done, and the threats by recently-emboldened Islamic radicals show that any step towards more tolerance can meet fierce resistance.

by contributor Giorgio Taraschi

Traditionally a target of harassment and intimidation in the world’s most populous Muslim country, transgenders in Indonesia - also called “waria”, a term that combines the Indonesian for woman (want) and the word for man (pria) - have lately been fighting for better acceptance, thanks to the work of some trail-blazing activists who have themselves endured decades of hardship. After seeing many colleagues fall victims to AIDS and other fatal diseases, “Mami” Joyce now takes care of 20 young transgender sex workers who are living with her as if in a big family. “Mami” Yuli, a prominent human rights campaigner, has set up a shelter for elderly transgenders, partly funded by a network of churches and a government that until three years ago still deemed them “mentally ill”. Also thanks to their efforts, there are signs that the future is getting brighter for this marginalized community, which activists estimate to be at least 3 million-strong in Indonesia. But much still needs to be done, and the threats by recently-emboldened Islamic radicals show that any step towards more tolerance can meet fierce resistance.

a view of Jakarta's business district at night. A young transgender puts make up on in his bedroom at Mami Joyce's house. Ajurn, 32, outside his room at Mami Joyce's house for transgenders, downtown Jakarta. Selvie watches tv in her bedroom on an early saturday evening Gea (right), the youngest one in the house, joking with her friend in the bedroom she shares with another young transgender at Mami Joyce's house. Being the youngest one in the "family", she can easily earn up to 700.000 rupiahs (70$) on an average saturday night. 
Saturday night - 10.30pm. Mami Joyce starts to wake the girls up for the night shift.
Ajurn and her roomates talking to clients through mobile apps. Internet dating is becoming more and more common in the waria community and the profit can be ten times higher than the "street fee". Mami Joyce takes a cigarette break halfway through the make up process. Mamy Joyce after completing her make up Yoti, the oldest transgender living in Mami Yuli's house. A young transgender stands at the entrance of the brothel in downtown Jakarta. Gea, 18. Her parents know she's an online sex worker. Being the youngest one in the "family", she can easily get up to 700.000 rupiahs (70$) on an average saturday night. Yulianus Rettoblaut (Mami Yuli) in the catholic church during the Mass celebration a few days before Easter. The priest, Romo Sumardi, offers shelter and food to the waria elderly community in times of crisis. Jane lies on the bed in her bedroom while reading a sexual awarness book provided by Mami Joyce. Selvie and her friends getting ready for a saturday night's shift a Mami Joyce's house. A client waiting outside the Mami Joyce's house for young transgenders.

Mamy Joyce gets ready for the saturday night shift Posters, necklaces and amulets in Mami Joyce's room. Mamy Joyce in her room
Selvie helps her friend dressing up for the night. Yulianus Rettoblaut (Mami Yuli) poses for a portrait in the livingroom of her "house for transgender elderly", Depok Baru,outskirts of Jakarta. Yoti, the oldest transgender living in Mami Yuli's house. A view of downtown Jakarta