We walk towards the white people

We walk towards the white people

“The ayoreo word Eami means forest, but it is also a synonym of world. For those who have not seen, it is very hard to understand how much their world has changed with the beginning of modernity” says Benno Glauser, philosopher and activist for the indigenous people in Paraguay. Before the coming of white man, Chaco was an uncontaminated region covered by forest. Fourteen indigenous ethnic groups inhabited there. They lived by hunting, harvesting fruits, honey and medicinal plants, free to move from a place to another following the rhytm of seasons and rainfall regime. They were semi-naked, slept under the stars and lighted up the nights with woodfire. A complex mythology explained very precisely how to maintain this perfect balance between nature and mankind. The first colonization took place in the early 30 by a group of Mennonites coming from Russia to escape persecutions of Communist regime. Few years later, Chaco became the theater of a war between Para- guay and Bolivia. A violent smallpox epidemic was brought from soldiers and killed almost half of the indigenous population in less than a month, spreading fear among the natives who retreated further and further into the forest. At the end of war, Mennonites were well established: they occupied the strategic water access points and they built enclosures to delimit their own landed properties. All at once, different groups of missionaries, largely called by the Mennonites, arrived to Chaco to diffuse their own religion, civilisation and bring the natives out of the forest. In the late 50, after twenty years of cultural and territorial resistance, mostly of the indigenous communities had been baptized and had left the forest to embrace the colonizers' lifestyle. During the last decade, the expansion of soybean production brought breeders to look for new lands. Low cost, low taxes and lacks of state control led to a new “land rush”, attracting investors to adopt the Men- nonites' cattle ranch business model. Nowdays, Chaco is one of the most important world producer of cow, exported mainly in Russia and Chile. Forest is daily cut down to create new pasture so that the region now hold the world highest deforestation rate. Natives have been displacing and live onto reservations far from their ancestral territories. All their traditional activities have become impracticable because of the biodiversity decline and drought increase. To survive they must work as laborers for the landowners, while their cultural identity is crushed by the pressure of globalization.

 

by contributor Giada Connestari

“The ayoreo word Eami means forest, but it is also a synonym of world. For those who have not seen, it is very hard to understand how much their world has changed with the beginning of modernity” says Benno Glauser, philosopher and activist for the indigenous people in Paraguay. Before the coming of white man, Chaco was an uncontaminated region covered by forest. Fourteen indigenous ethnic groups inhabited there. They lived by hunting, harvesting fruits, honey and medicinal plants, free to move from a place to another following the rhytm of seasons and rainfall regime. They were semi-naked, slept under the stars and lighted up the nights with woodfire. A complex mythology explained very precisely how to maintain this perfect balance between nature and mankind. The first colonization took place in the early 30 by a group of Mennonites coming from Russia to escape persecutions of Communist regime. Few years later, Chaco became the theater of a war between Para- guay and Bolivia. A violent smallpox epidemic was brought from soldiers and killed almost half of the indigenous population in less than a month, spreading fear among the natives who retreated further and further into the forest. At the end of war, Mennonites were well established: they occupied the strategic water access points and they built enclosures to delimit their own landed properties. All at once, different groups of missionaries, largely called by the Mennonites, arrived to Chaco to diffuse their own religion, civilisation and bring the natives out of the forest. In the late 50, after twenty years of cultural and territorial resistance, mostly of the indigenous communities had been baptized and had left the forest to embrace the colonizers' lifestyle. During the last decade, the expansion of soybean production brought breeders to look for new lands. Low cost, low taxes and lacks of state control led to a new “land rush”, attracting investors to adopt the Men- nonites' cattle ranch business model. Nowdays, Chaco is one of the most important world producer of cow, exported mainly in Russia and Chile. Forest is daily cut down to create new pasture so that the region now hold the world highest deforestation rate. Natives have been displacing and live onto reservations far from their ancestral territories. All their traditional activities have become impracticable because of the biodiversity decline and drought increase. To survive they must work as laborers for the landowners, while their cultural identity is crushed by the pressure of globalization.

 

 Two Ayorean children at the edge of the forest on their reservation. 
In an Ayorean idiom, the word Eami means forest, but also signifies “world.” In fact, in traditional indigenous culture nature and man were designed as two interdependent elements of the same body, and everything depended on this mutual wellbeing. 
For centuries, this perfect equilibrium between man and nature has fostered the preservation  of the Paraguayan Chaco’s natural and cultural  heritage. 
The Chaco is a vast semi-arid region In the Mennonite ranches, cattle raising still has a traditional flavor. Although they are well placed in a globalized economic and trade system, the culture and savoir-faire of the cowboy 
persists among landowners. They wear a hat and spurs, moving their herds on horseback and capturing calves and bulls with a lasso. 
Neuland, PY. Liu, an evangelical missionary of Korean descent, has lived alone in the church adjacent to the community for three years.Liu continues the work of missionaries begun over 70 years ago, in order to spread their own religion and civilization among the natives. The missionaries were mostly called by the Mennonitesat the end of the Chaco’s war. After 20 years of cultural and territorial resistance, the missionaries have successfully brought the indigenous population out of the forest and have imposed their A native man works as a laborer in a ranch. He clears up the weeds to ensure maximum performance of the pasture. This is an informal, daily and precarious job.
“Working with the natives is very difficult – says a rancher in the Philadelphia area. They are inconsistent and unproductive. When they go home for the weekend you are never sure if you will
see them the following Monday. You cannot offer them either a skilled job or a regular contract.” Indeed, in Chaco the natives are employed as laborers during In the community, children sleep together under a single mosquito net, and they  care of each others as brothers.Ayoreo Community of Jesudi, PRY Aurelio, 45, knocks down a tree after spotting a beehive. 
Traditionally, the natives were able to gather honey without damaging the trees. But the reduction of the territory available to them and the need for monetary income pushed them to become 
beekeepers. They now have to capture the queen bee inside the trunk without regard for the harm inflicted on nature. 
Enhlet Community of El Estribo, PRY “At one time they hunted armadillos, crocodile, birds,..” he says. Today occasionally we shoot a boar that gets to close to the trail. By now there is less and less game. Men do not venture into the forest and young people neither know how nor want to hunt.” says Joseph while burns the boar he just caught to skin it.
Environmentalists say deforestation, caused by the expansion of the cattle industry, is provoking a serious loss of biodiversity in the Chaco ecosystem.
Ayoreo community of Jesudi, PRY Native children play behind their home, into their reservation, during the sunset. Ayoreo Community of Jesudi, PRY The Missionaries banned shamanism and imposed Christian rituals.
“In the past we worshiped Satan - now we pray to God,” says the pastor who officiated the marriage of these young natives. But Rosaldo and
Elisa, 22 and 20 years old, appear serious, uncomfortable, and sad throughout their feast, an imposed ceremony that doesn’t fit their customs.
Enthlet community of Armonia, PRY Alfred Friesen, a mennonite landowner, during the daily inspection tour of his ranch. After the last drought, Alfred Friesen decided to slow down the beef production and leave Carrugo trees in his pasture, exploiting more environmentally friendly agricultural methods: "Trees create shade and coolness; fruits are edibles for humans and for cows. Also, when you have more trees into the pasture, automatically there are more sparrows which eat the worms that attack livestock. "
Women learn how to install a drip irrigation system. The vegetable garden made by the Italian NGOs COOPI is an open school, where community members can learn how to grow even in times
of water shortage. Chaco is a semi-arid region, subject to prolonged periods of extreme drought. Native populations know how to overcome the water shortage: moving freely within the territory and following the rain cycle. Depriving them from one of the most important means of subsistence, becoming sedentary has made them The football field has become the Sunday meeting place of the indigenous community, when men and boys come from work as farmhands on ranches.
The boys wear the t-shirts of the great football teams, emulating cool and modern clothing, dreaming of belonging to the dominant culture.
Nivaclé Community of Campo Loa, PRY. Gerolly, 16, fiddling with the phone while his mother, a community leader, tells an elderly woman how to sterilize water to prevent diseases, especially of children.
The generation gap that separates teenagers from their grandparents is huge. Although attached to their community, the youth live under the constant shadow of an ancestral culture as
much as esteemed as by now distant and unable to offer them a real alternative to the West.
Enthlet Community of El Estribo, PRY  Denisa look and her mobile phone, while waiting to finish the red hair-dye.
Mobile phone, as well as western fashion,has generated a sort of Saturday night fever among young natives. To shoot, write, and post selfies on their Facebook page is a status symbol, a tangible sign of belonging to the dominant and modern culture. Ayoreo community of Jesudi, PRY A mother washes her daughter with water collected from the community reservoir.
The water scarcity obliged the indigenous to a very reduced use. They can wash themselves only one time a week. k. During drought they are completely dependent on the water supplies 
dispensed by the municipality 
Nivaclé community of Campo Loa, PRY The Mennonite ASCIM community councilor chat with indigenous laborers on a work break during the daily inspection of the ranch.
Ascim is the Mennonite association dedicated to improve natives' living conditions according to the model of cultural and economic development of the settlers. Forest was transformed into a pasture where indigenous work as laborers while the Mennonite Counselor manages budget and staff.
Enlhet community of Campo Largo, PRY A truck driver counts the cattle loaded in the cattle trailer bound for the slaughterhouse.
The locals call them “cow autobuses ” because of their length. In Chaco the traffic has dramatically increased in recent years, although the roads are still mostly unpaved and poorly equipped.
Neuland, PRY “In Boquerón - one of the three departments of the Chaco Paraguay – around 90% of internal revenues come from cattle farming, says Edwin Pauls Friesen, governor of the region, while loading
cattle to be sent to the slaughterhouse. The Mennonite colonies – developing the current model of agricultural production – showed the economic potential of the region. The only
brake for the future could be international laws for environmental protection. In the Chaco the Zero Deforestation Law would completely stop Television is an exceptional event for the community, which meets in front of the small screen whenever incomes permit buying gasoline for the electricity generator.
They watch everything: from American television series to the news, from Hollywood films to cartoons, without settling on just one thing.
Maybe because of language difficulties. Most of the programs actually are in Spanish, the second national language of Paraguay. But in the community, which has kept its own language,
knowledge of Spanish is Mosquito nets, deployed for the night. Although they have abandoned life in the forest, where they used to sleep under the stars,
women and children continue to lie outside protected only by mosquito nets. The brick building is used exclusively as storage.
Ayoreo Community of Jesudi, PRY The community comes together every night at the sacred trees to pray the rosary.
“Children,” explains Eladio, the leader of the community, “they saw Jesus wrapped in a white light near these trees, which are sacred to us. We come here to pray, we bring holy water
to make our prayers effectual. We hope that one day our living conditions can improve.” Illuminating themselves with torches, the faithful accompany the litany with religious chants and guitar.
Nivaclé Community of Campo Loa, PY The protestant pastor goes to the community  church every Wednesday for the mass dedicated to women. 
At the end of the service, he brings needles and cloth to teach them a few basics of sewing. Indeed, traditionally the native women know how to weave artisan handbags, using colors derived 
from plants. Because they live semi-naked, however, women do not have any skills in making clothing. 
Community Enhlet El Estribo, PRY A Mennonite farmer inspects the herds of his ranch, about 5000 ha.
In the Paraguayan Chaco, the economic boom from the cattle industry has exploded in the last 10 years as the expansion of soybean cultivation’s land use has driven ranches to relocate.
Driven by agribusiness, farmers have relocated in areas once considered marginal, like the Chaco, which at first was considered unproductive because the climate is extremely arid.
Filadelfia, PRY During the dry season, grazing in large ranches becomes scarce. In the Chaco, the climate is so dry that 1 hectare of cultivated pasture is required to nourish one cow - an area four times higher
than that required in wetter areas. For this reason, only extensive cattle raising is practiced in the Chaco, with consequent forest reduction as large tracts are turned into pasture, so that
today the region has one of the highest rates of deforestation in the world. Neuland, Paraguay. Catalina e Juditta, 54 and 56,  have traveled 30 km by foot to reach the nearest Mennonite colony and offer cleaning services to homes.Colonia Ribera, PRY. “I was born here. My father and my children as well; we are tied to this land. But the current economic boom attracts many foreign entrepreneurs interested in making money quickly.
The risk is exploiting fertile lands without bothering to maintain them for future generations. Here the climate is arid, if left untreated the land turns into a desert,” says Alfred Friesen, a Mennonite landowner, while visiting the ranch with his son.
Neuland, PRY